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align your dish you normally need 2 things on the Signal Test screen
(see Section 4 of the main article). One is zeros in the Network ID
panel and the other is at least a little movement in the signal strength
bar. You should normally see something there even if the dish is
pointing nowhere near the satellite. So if you have absolutely nothing
on the strength bar, it is possible you have a faulty cable connection
to the digibox. This is not true of all digiboxes - it is certainly true
of mine, a Panasonic DSB31, but I am aware that Pace and Grundig
digiboxes don't necessarily display anything at all on the Signal Test
screen and I have
a
separate page on that subject.
So basically, if you do get nothing on either the strength or quality bars, treat the cable connections with suspicion. The connections might be perfectly fine but I have had any number of queries from people who found them to be the problem and everything was OK once they'd rewired the connectors. In 2 instances, without mentioning names, both units had been supplied pre-assembled by supposedly reputable companies, well known to any caravanner! Unscrew the connector from the end of the cable and proceed as follows. Start with the connector at the digibox end, but it might be necessary to rewire the dish connector as well in which case you will also have to apply a suitable weatherproof covering after refitting it to the dish. Professionals use something called self-amalgamating tape that cures into a permanent water-tight covering. Maplins sell it at several £s for a roll but silicone sealant will probably do the job just as well. It's also possible now to buy little rubber boots that simply slide over the connector to waterproof it. Buy them from www.satcure.co.uk.  Digital cable has 5 layers. First is the outer plastic cover, then come 2 screening layers, a copper braid and a metallic plastic foil, then an insulating layer and finally the central copper core. You have to make absolutely sure that the central core is completely isolated from the screening layers. In particular, the filaments of the copper braid are very fine and sometimes difficult to see, and it's all too easy to get one trapped inside the connector where it could short across to the core. If that happens, bang goes any chance of getting a signal. Apart from isolating the inner core from the outer layers, you also have to make sure that the braid is in electrical contact with the metal body of the connector, to ensure adequate screening. So twist the braid back in the form of a pigtail along the outer plastic so that when you screw the connector back on to the cable's outer covering it clamps on to the twisted braid. Finally, trim off any excess braid. If you want to watch a video of these instructions, it's here. (Sorry if the commentary is a bit hesitant in places - it's very difficult ad-libbing while you're trying to do things with both hands ... and especially for us blokes who, it is said, can't multitask!)
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